We were staying overnight in a cluster of homes – a dusun – in the remote interior of the island of Sumba in Eastern Indonesia. I had met Pak Stefanus, the dusun leader, many years ago when he worked as a field officer with Yakkersum, so it was wonderful to see him again. As he walked with ease and I slipped and slid the kilometre or so to visit the spring they were hoping to tap, I attempted to slow Pak Stefanus down by asking questions about life in the dusun. He told me it’s pretty good; there’s lots he’s thankful for and he’s mostly happy. But there’s also a hardness to it, and particularly of late. If the weather is reasonable, his family will have enough through farming their paddy, growing veggies and foraging in the forest. But it’s been a few years of enough crops failing to make things difficult, so his wife left the island and is working overseas as a house help to boost the family finances. He and the kids miss her.
Add layers of no electricity or running water, one toilet between many houses, long distances over rough roads to hospitals or markets and a single daily meal of rice and spinach when the dry season comes around, and it’s susa, susa sekali – it’s hard, really hard.
As Pak Stefanus shared openly about the challenges he faces, a series of questions arose in my mind, ranging from the practical (what programs might help in such a remote location?), to the theological (what’s God’s role in this? Can I pin the crop failures on him?) and the personal (what’s my responsibility to this brother of mine?). It’s hard not to let sadness, guilt and anger expunge the hope that we were aiming for through the small-but-meaningful water project we were exploring.
This is par for the course in this line of work, and I’m learning to walk alongside the sadness rather than try to ignore it or let it drag me around by the nose. But sometimes I worry that I’m getting used to the suffering, that callouses of familiarity are deadening my heart – and that scares me too.
Pak Stefanus: a kind and unpretentious man
We headed back to a simple-yet-delicious meal at Pak Stefanus’ house. As we chatted into the night, to our right a group of men began playing a game of cards, kept primed by home-grown coffee and some small cakes we had brought to share. They were having a blast, it was absolutely raucous, the fun they were having was unavoidably infectious. Though I had no idea of how the game worked, I found myself laughing out loud with them as well-worn cards were dramatically slapped down on the bamboo mat and met with howls of delight and horror.
It is also inevitable to come across this reality in this line of work, but it’s taken me much, much longer to accept it. The economically poor are often swimming in a sea of difficulties that would drown weaker folk like me, and I’ve often struggled to see much beyond that. But these people also know how to play a rowdy game of cards. Their dancing and singing is well-practiced. They’re not afraid to rustle up a feast and celebrate even when the harvest is looking bleak. Some would say that’s reckless, poor planning, but it feels more like an act of courageous necessity.
In a world that’s leaning towards black and white, I’m reminded through Pak Stefanus and his dusun that paradox, tensions, and ‘both-sides-now’ are not just possible, but incredibly important. Avoiding the sadness and suffering of poverty is as dangerous as drowning in it. But equally dangerous is a naivety (and I’m not sure that’s what it is, but I hear it quite often) that the economically poor are quite happy in their suffering state. We want to avoid confusing joy in hard places with joy about hard places, for the former deserves our commendation and the latter would do well with a psychological assessment. We need honest eyes that try to see things as they really are – that remembers the hungry as we tuck into an extravagant meal, and is unafraid to get up and dance even as the darkness presses in.
So take time to feel a deep sadness for what’s broken and hurting – in our hearts, homes, community, country and world. Lance those callouses so they bleed again. But do it while you’re playing cards with all the theatrics you can muster. Eat cake in ways that delight and horrify the onlookers.
It’s a special breed of people who can howl in both directions.
And it’s probably the poor who can best teach the rest of us.
This will be included in the upcoming Amos Magazine – if you’d like a free hardcopy mailed to you, let me know and we’ll get one to you!




